There are few places in Rome that really give you a sense of la dolce vita than the lil’ known neighbourhood Trastevere. While I was in Trastevere I got to drink wine in a 350 year-old wine cellar and devour pizza from an oven older than Italy itself! I even got to meet lovely Italian men like Signore Robert who makes grandfather’s balls. On a walking tour with Eating Italy Food Tours we also discovered a biscottifico, a cookie factory right in the heart of the neighbourhood.
We followed our noses into Biscottificio Innocenti, a sweet and sugary cookie shop on via della Luce. Stefania, along with her mom Michela, is the pastry chef behind the counter here. In fact, Stefania is a fourth generation owner of this little shop so she definitely knows a thing or two about living the sweet life! Her grandfather first opened the family business in 1923 and they’ve been rolling out baked goods ever since. Their family recipes have become legendary in Trastevere. They are known for their simple but traditional Italian biscotti made with eggs, flour, and spices. Who knew just a few ingredients could make such yummy treats?
I could see how this little cookie shop (and their recipes) have stood the test of time. The cookies here are made with the same cookie-maker they’ve used since 1950 which was built just for the family. Stefania says it helps her family create the same delicious recipes that locals in Trastevere have come to love all these years. They make over 100 different types of biscotti everyday, each carefully baked, shaped, and decorated. Kate, our local guide says it’s the kind of place that looks like it would have oomph loompas in it.
What I love most is the family’s genuine warmth you get, from the moment you walk in the door to when you leave (if you can pull yourself away from their storefront window). Even though they start their day wayyy before any of us are awake, Stefania and Michela still stopped to chat with us about our day and greeted us with smiles from ear-to-ear. I love a little shop with so much tradition, history and passion. Biscottificio Innocenti was one of my favourite stops on my walking tour in Trastevere. When you’re in Rome, be sure to stop by. They are the sweetest two ladies in Trastevere!
How to Get There: via della Luce, 21
Biscottificio Innocenti is one of the sweet spots on the Eating Europe food tour in Rome. As always, all opinions are my own.